Madagascar Mission Update: July 2 Ambohimanga Rova & Rajery's Musika

Greetings from Madagascar! Josh here, writing for the group. July 2 was our first full day in and around Antananarivo. It was amazing. Some highlights:

THE LOST LUGGAGE

OK, this part wasn't amazing, but since several of you have thoughtfully sent consoling messages, you deserve an update. Two checked bags are still in Paris. One contains a good deal of Days For Girls supplies; the other contains my clothes. Fortunately, I had a second outfit of outerwear in my carry-on, and our helpful driver Jocelyn took us to the Super U (think Target but smaller) in Talatamaty so I could buy enough to tide me over until our bags find us at Berenty Reserve, hopefully by this weekend. 

In a true test of my world traveler learning curve, I was allowed to enter the airport baggage area alone, without any French-or-Malagasy-speaking companions, to work out the luggage delivery details with an Air France employee. She was great, and Sue and Maggie walked me through everything via WhatsApp. Double fortunately, the shirt in my carry-on matched the Bougainvillea at the day's first stop...

Josh and the local flora!

AMBOHIMANGA ROVA

... a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where King Andrianampoinimerina lived and ruled with his 12 wives from 1787 to 1810. It remains a sacred spot for many people here. Our engaging tour guide pointed out the horned scalps of zebu, the humped cattle employed as delivery cart drivers through the city; the zebu had been sacrificed at Ambohimanga yesterday. And photos weren't allowed inside the buildings, so I can't show you (for instance) the ladder the king would climb to eavesdrop on his wives interviewing potential guests while he decided whether to receive them. 

Front - Simon, Maggie, Sue – Back -Josh, Paul

In a moment of serendipity, our guide described a dish the king would cook for himself and his brides, mashed cassava cooked with chunks of pork, which remains such a national staple...

MUSICAL LUNCH

... that we were served it for lunch! It hit the spot. Also notable on the prix fixe menu were a tomato and red onion salad, giant avocado quarters eaten from the peel, and hunks of zebu (those poor guys!) with some kind of chard. "Simple, traditional Madagascar food," explained the restaurant's proprietor Rajery with a big grin.

But Rajery had another talent up his sleeve. He's known worldwide as a master of the valiha, a cylindrical zither on which he fingerpicks hypnotic original pieces, sometimes as accompaniment to his singing.

He played the Chicago Cultural Center last year! Rajery ate with us and spoke in French about his career and different styles of Malagasy music. (Paul helpfully translated.) When we'd earlier entered his open-air restaurant, he'd welcomed us with a group of traditional dancers accompanied by jubilant percussion and accordion. We ended our visit by enjoying a short concert of Rajery's own music, with one of his sons on guitar, and he showed me how he tunes his valiha differently for different songs. I was geeking out.  (Check out Rajery YouTube Video if you'd like to hear him.)

SUE GEEKS OUT OVER LACE

Next stop was a factory, one of the few places in Madagascar making lace on a regular basis. Sue, herself an avid lacemaker, wanted to meet and observe her colleagues. Unfortunately no one was working on lace this time of year, but (after Sue produced a gift of English bobbins for the lacemakers) a couple of employees brought forth samples of their uncommon product, made with raffia, a fiber that comes from palm leaves. 

It was wonderful to hear Sue briefly freed from the responsibility of keeping us all on schedule and discussing one of her passions. (Also, we're very lucky she keeps us all on schedule!)

Thanks for your continued prayers! Tomorrow morning Mission Aviation Fellowship will fly us down to the Amboasary area, and we'll get to work.